The Camry FAQ

This list is far from complete, if you have any tips, let me know.

Who makes intakes for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Who makes exhausts for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Which spark plugs are best?
Who makes springs for my Camry and how much do they drop it?
Do I need new shocks for my Camry when I get lowering springs?
Who makes shocks for my Camry?
What size wheel and offset can I put on my Camry?
If I lower my Camry, do I need a camber kit?
Do bigger wheels slow you down?
What is a strut bar, and what does it do?
My low heater fan speeds don't work.
Power Steering Preventative Maintenance
Really Changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid

Who makes intakes for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Coming soon...

Back to top

Who makes exhausts for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Coming soon...

Back to top

Which spark plugs are best?
Coming soon...

Back to top

Who makes springs for my Camry and how much do they drop it?
YearManufacturerDrop
92-96Apex?
DropZone?
Eibach1.2
H&R1.4"
H&R1.0"
Intrax1.75"
Sprint1.8"

Back to top

Do I need aftermarket shocks for my Camry when I get lowering springs??
No, you don't NEED aftermarket shocks for your Camry when applying lowering springs, but you will find that the ride is very bouncy with the stock shocks, especially if they are worn out.

Back to top

Who makes shocks for my Camry?
KYB, Tokico, Koni

Back to top

What size wheel and offset can I put on my Camry?
Pretty much everyone is going with a 16x7 or a 17x7 wheel these days. A 38mm to 43mm offset fits best.

Back to top

If I lower my Camry, do I need a camber kit?
No, in most cases the camber does not change a lot if you go with a normal aftermarket lowering spring. Make sure you get an alignment, though!

Back to top

Do bigger wheels slow you down?
In general, since bigger wheels weigh more and the mass is located farther away from the center of rotation, yes, bigger wheels will reduce acceleration. However, with stickier tires you will be able to corner harder!

Back to top

What is a strut bar, and what does it do?
A strut bar ties together the strut towers on the front of the car. It stiffens the front end so that it flexes less while corning and when you hit bumps. Generally helps to make your car feel more solid and may help handling a bit.

Back to top

My low heater fan speeds don't work
A thoughtful fellow posted this here a while back. As someone below noted, the problem is in the resistors. (The blower works, so that's *not* the problem.) See, the power goes through anywhere from one to three resistor coils, depending on how the button is set. Lower speed, more resistors to lower the power going to the blower.

If you look at the pack from left to right, and call them resistors 1, 2, and 3, then current goes thru 1 only for the next to highest speed, 1 and 2 for the next to lowest speed, and all 3 for the LO speed.

When the #3 goes bad, it makes LO inoperable. It also appears to be the smallest and most fragile of the 3 resistors.

You can pay Toyota a bag of money for a "resistor pack," which on a '90 is under the passenger dash as mentioned below and costs something like $65. Or, if you have a soldering iron and a little patience, you can replace the bad resistors yourself. I had to do this twice.

First, order two resistors from www.radioshack.com part #90-903. Then pull the resistor pack out and figure out which are the #1 and #2 resistors. If you have a digital multi-meter (get the pocket one from Radio Shack if you don't), this is easy; add up the resistance until you see how the current flows. Otherwise, you'll have to use logic. Anyway, unsolder the two bad resistors and solder the Radio Shack ones in.

Presto. You have low-speed fans again, for about $3 worth of parts, and now you own a useful digital multi-meter, too.

If you want stay as close to factory settings as possible with the resistors, the factory Camry electrical wiring manual lists the resistors as 0.4, 0.8, and 1.5 ohm for 1-3 respectively. Back to top

Power Steering Preventative Maintenance
Nowhere have i seen anything but 'check fluid level in the reservoir'. My problem began innocently enough. My 95 v6 LE was leaving just a few drops of 'something' on the garage floor on a semi-regular basis. Since Toyota ATF is brown, you cant really tell if its just motor oil, or ATF, or p.s. fluid. I have switched to regular red ATF and p.s. fluid (same thing), so now I know.

With some excellent help from the camryman.org forum, I found my problem. The low pressure fluid return line on the power steering pump was leaking very slowly. Easy fix; slide the pinch on clamp up the line 3/4" and add a regular hose clamp on the pump side, just medium tight. Problem solved, right? Not so fast, bubba.

Drain all the fluid from the reservoir, take it out of the vehicle and look in the bottom of it. There was a 2 or 3 mm layer of blackish 'crud' in mine. Use your solvent of choice (gas, alcohol, paint thinner, lacquer thinner, acetone, Berrymans, whatever- i used gas), and slosh it around and dump it several times until you can see the fine filter-mesh in the bottom of the reservoir. You want that crud circulating through your rack? I didnt think so. Once the tank is clean and dry, hook it back up, and put a half cup or so of fresh ATF in it. Disconnect the return line down on the chassis, and catch the fluid with your oil change drain pan. If you have jacked up the front on both sides so the wheels are clear of the ground (recommended), then just muscle the wheel back and forth from stop to stop, refilling as necessary from above, until you see nice clean red fluid. Hook everything back up, start the vehicle, check the fluid level, warm it up, running the steering wheel from stop to stop several times to bleed all the air out.

Why go to this much trouble?

I have heard horror stories of people's rack cylinders leaking and eventually failing, requiring new racks. 750 bucks, dude! I'd make no guarantee that this wont happen, but since the effort and cost are small, it certainly cant hurt.

When should you do this?

I dunno. certainly 95k miles is too long. 50 k miles would be my best guess. and you will KNOW that it is right.........

Thanks to Dan Edwards for this one.

Back to top

Really Changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid
Take it to a shop and let them 'power flush' it for $69.95. Or, do it yourself. Hey, there's a pump inside your automatic, so why not use it?

This works the best when the engine and tranny are completely warmed up. The fluid is hot, so use gloves or be quick!

Get a fresh gasket for the pan. Drain the fluid from the pan. pull the pan, clean it up, drop the filter screen and clean it up too. Put it back together. pour in (slowly) a GALLON of fresh ATF. Disconnect the return (driver side) line from the radiator cooler, and attach a short (6") piece of tubing to direct the flow down into your oil change pan. Start the engine. let it idle till no more fluid come out then shut it off. You noticed that brown icky color, right? Dump the burned, dirty fluid into the empty gallon jug. pour in another GALLON, start the engine, watch the color of the stuff coming out. When the fluid stops, shut her off. I usually find that on the 3rd gallon, it starts to look pretty nice. then you quit. Double check the fluid level till its perfect.

Have done this more than once, and seems to work pretty well. I use the cheap dexron III from Wal-Mart (about $4/gal), and figure cheap, clean stuff is better than anything that is filthy. I just put a cooler on today, so hope to see the stuff stay clean longer.

Thanks to Dan Edwards for this one.

Back to top


drees@greenhydrant.com Home
Last Updated: Sun Oct 19 16:54:02 PDT 2003 www.greenhydrant.com