This list is far from complete, if you have any tips, let me know.
Who makes intakes for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Who makes exhausts for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Which spark plugs are best?
Who makes springs for my Camry and how much do they drop it?
Do I need new shocks for my Camry when I get lowering springs?
Who makes shocks for my Camry?
What size wheel and offset can I put on my Camry?
If I lower my Camry, do I need a camber kit?
Do bigger wheels slow you down?
What is a strut bar, and what does it do?
My low heater fan speeds don't work.
Power Steering Preventative Maintenance
Really Changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid
Who makes intakes for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Coming soon...
Who makes exhausts for my Camry, and how much power do they give?
Coming soon...
Which spark plugs are best?
Coming soon...
Who makes springs for my Camry and how much do they drop it?
| Year | Manufacturer | Drop |
| 92-96 | Apex | ? |
| DropZone | ? | |
| Eibach | 1.2 | |
| H&R | 1.4" | |
| H&R | 1.0" | |
| Intrax | 1.75" | |
| Sprint | 1.8" |
Who makes shocks for my Camry?
KYB, Tokico, Koni
My low heater fan speeds don't work
If you look at the pack from left to right, and call them
resistors 1, 2, and 3, then current goes thru 1 only for the next to
highest speed, 1 and 2 for the next to lowest speed, and all 3 for the
LO speed.
When the #3 goes bad, it makes LO
inoperable. It also appears to be the smallest and most fragile of the
3 resistors.
You can pay Toyota a bag of money for a "resistor pack," which on a '90 is under the passenger dash as mentioned below and costs something
like $65. Or, if you have a soldering iron and a little patience, you can replace the bad resistors yourself. I had to do this twice.
First, order two resistors from www.radioshack.com part #90-903. Then pull the resistor pack out and figure out which are the #1 and #2 resistors. If
you have a digital multi-meter (get the pocket one from Radio Shack if you don't), this is easy; add up the resistance until you see how the current
flows. Otherwise, you'll have to use logic. Anyway, unsolder the two bad resistors and solder the Radio Shack ones in.
Presto. You have low-speed fans again, for about $3 worth of parts, and now you own a useful digital multi-meter, too.
If you want stay as close to factory settings as possible with the resistors, the factory Camry electrical wiring
manual lists the resistors as 0.4, 0.8, and 1.5 ohm for 1-3
respectively.
Back to top
With some excellent help from the camryman.org forum, I found my problem.
The low pressure fluid return line on the power steering pump was leaking
very slowly. Easy fix; slide the pinch on clamp up the line 3/4" and add a
regular hose clamp on the pump side, just medium tight. Problem solved,
right? Not so fast, bubba.
Drain all the fluid from the reservoir, take it out of the vehicle and look
in the bottom of it. There was a 2 or 3 mm layer of blackish 'crud' in
mine. Use your solvent of choice (gas, alcohol, paint thinner, lacquer
thinner, acetone, Berrymans, whatever- i used gas), and slosh it around and
dump it several times until you can see the fine filter-mesh in the bottom
of the reservoir. You want that crud circulating through your rack? I didnt
think so. Once the tank is clean and dry, hook it back up, and put a half
cup or so of fresh ATF in it. Disconnect the return line down on the
chassis, and catch the fluid with your oil change drain pan. If you have
jacked up the front on both sides so the wheels are clear of the ground
(recommended), then just muscle the wheel back and forth from stop to stop,
refilling as necessary from above, until you see nice clean red fluid. Hook
everything back up, start the vehicle, check the fluid level, warm it up,
running the steering wheel from stop to stop several times to bleed all the
air out.
Why go to this much trouble?
I have heard horror stories of people's rack cylinders leaking and
eventually failing, requiring new racks. 750 bucks, dude! I'd make no
guarantee that this wont happen, but since the effort and cost are small, it
certainly cant hurt.
When should you do this?
I dunno. certainly 95k miles is too long. 50 k miles would be my best guess.
and you will KNOW that it is right.........
Thanks to Dan Edwards for this one.
A thoughtful fellow posted this here a while back. As someone below noted, the problem is in the resistors. (The blower works, so that's *not* the
problem.) See, the power goes through anywhere from one to three resistor coils, depending on how the button is set. Lower speed, more resistors
to lower the power going to the blower.
Really Changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid
This works the best when the engine and tranny are completely warmed up.
The fluid is hot, so use gloves or be quick!
Get a fresh gasket for the pan. Drain the fluid from the pan. pull the pan,
clean it up, drop the filter screen and clean it up too. Put it back
together. pour in (slowly) a GALLON of fresh ATF. Disconnect the return
(driver side) line from the radiator cooler, and attach a short (6") piece
of tubing to direct the flow down into your oil change pan. Start the
engine. let it idle till no more fluid come out then shut it off. You
noticed that brown icky color, right? Dump the burned, dirty fluid into the
empty gallon jug. pour in another GALLON, start the engine, watch the color
of the stuff coming out. When the fluid stops, shut her off. I usually find
that on the 3rd gallon, it starts to look pretty nice. then you quit.
Double check the fluid level till its perfect.
Have done this more than once, and seems to work pretty well. I use the
cheap dexron III from Wal-Mart (about $4/gal), and figure cheap, clean stuff
is better than anything that is filthy. I just put a cooler on today, so
hope to see the stuff stay clean longer.
Thanks to Dan Edwards for this one.
Take it to a shop and let them 'power flush' it for $69.95. Or, do it
yourself. Hey, there's a pump inside your automatic, so why not use it?
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| Last Updated: Sun Oct 19 16:54:02 PDT 2003 | www.greenhydrant.com |